logo

Sponsors:

Why climbing both 8000 peaks? History of the Hidden Peak History of the Gasherbrum II

The Karakorum, the highest mountains of the world
	"The Cathedral" One of the most impressing formations. We will pass on the way to our base camp.
The famous British Explorer Francis Younghusband already complained about the name in 1887: 'Karakorum' means 'black gravel' and this name does not fit to a chain of snowy peaks on the top of the world. The Karakorum differs from the Himalaya; it is higher, more rugged, wilder and more inaccessible. Separated spatially and geologically from the Himalaya, it is the highest mountains of our planet. There is no other place in the world with such a huge number of mountains of six-, seven- and eightthousend meters height. The Gasherbrum-Group The peaks of this group rise like five siblings southeast to the K2 (8 611 m, second highest mountain of the world). Two of them are our target: The Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak is 8068 m high. It is called Hidden Peak because it is hidden behind one of the most impressive wall, the west flank of the Gasherbrum IV. The name of this group came from their beauty glancing in the evening sun: Gasherbrum means 'Shining wall'. The second Eighttousend of this group is the Gasherbrum II, 8035 m high.
to the TOP
	Why climbing two Eightthousend peaks?
Well, effort and risk multiply as well as the challenge. However, effort and profit show a new relationsship to each other: single training, single akklimatisation, single finance, single journey for two targets. Despite the challenge, we are realists: Hidden Peak and Gasherbrum II stand close to each other. The base camp and a second base camp in 6000 meters height can be used for both mountains. This saves time, power and material. We will act in two teams simultanously at both peaks for preparing the climbing route. The second mountain is therefore already prepared for the respective team.
to the top
	"Hidden Peak or Gasherbrum I (8068 m)" The elen highest mountain of the world. full image: 69 K)
History of the Hidden Peak 1889-1929 Thee Gasherbrum-group is surveyed and photographed by Britains and Italians. The British explorer M. Conway introduced the names 'Hidden Peak' and Gasherbrum II. 1934 A big international expedition, organized by the Swiss G.O. Dyhrenfurth, explores both peaks. Two climbers get to a height of 6300 m. 1936 A french expedition gets to 6900 m. 1958 An American expedition, headed by N.Clinch and P.Schoening, climbs the summit for the very first time. On the way crossing the south spur, the use short ski and snow shoes. P.Schoening and A.Kauffman get the summit on 4th. July. 1975 As a 2-man-expedition with only twelve sherpas to the base camp, R. Messner and P. Habeler get to the summit on a new route (northwest route)(2nd. ascent). One day later, they are followed by three Austrians on the same route (3rd. ascent). 1977 The fourth successful ascent to the Hidden Peak by two Yugouslawians, again on a new route. D. Bregar remains missing. 1980 A french expedition is succesful with the 5th ascent and pass the south ridge for the first time. 1981 Japaneses have the 6th succesful ascent. 1982 A German expedition headed by G.Sturm climbs the Hidden Peak. G.Sturm, M.Dacher and S.Hupfauer get via a new route in the north face to the highest point. In the same year, the first woman gets to the summit. Moreover, there is the first ski descent from the top of an Eightthousend. 1983 Teams from Switzerland, Poland and Spain are succesful, partially on new routes.
to the top
	Gasherbrum II (8035 m) Its 2000 m high Southwest flank. In the center the remains of a huge avalanche. (full image: 60 K)
History of the Gasherbrum II 1889-1929 1934 The international expedition headed by the Swiss G.O.Dyhrenfurth studies possible ways to the top of the Gasherbrum II and gets to 6250 m on the south flank. 1956 First ascent via the southwest spur by an Austrian expedition headed by F.Moravec. Moravec and two others start from a bivouac at 7700 m via the east spur to the summit on 7th. July. 1975 Second ascent by a French group, as late as 19 years after the first ascent. During this expedition, the first victim at the Gasherbrum has to be lamented. In this year, further three expeditions get to the summit, among others a Polish women team headed by W.Rutkiewicz. 1979 A Chilean and a German expedition succeeded in the 6th and 7th ascent. 1982 R.Messner gets with two Pakistanis to the summit. 1984 During the legendary double ascent to two 8000 peaks, R. Messner and H. Kammerlander get to the summit of the Gasherbrum II and afterwards of the Hidden Peak. Counting and registration is more complicated during the following years because some illegal teams got to the summit. Both peaks belong to the less frequently climbed 8000 peaks. Per year, only 2 to 3 permits are given.

Helpful comments regarding contents and Englsich spelling are welcome.